Newsletter June 2010

 

Malta was intriguing with its mixed history of Arab and European invasions.  The Maltese language sounds like Arabic to the casual listener

and the Maltese are reluctant to acknowledge this.  Their culture is the result of countless invasions from the Arabs in Africa, the Italians to the

north and an overlay of British influence.  The Maltese are generally dark and slightly thick set, although being light skinned and thin is highly

prized. We met up with friends Wayne and Angie from the yacht Hitrapia, and Wayne gave us a guided tour, and introduced us to the local

pies, delicious!!!

 

 

Approaching Valletta harbour Malta                                                     In Valletta harbour

 

The country is hot and demanding.  If  you ask a Maltese which side of the street he drives on, he will answer “ the shady side.”

Malta has a beautiful honey-coloured limestone which is mined on the islands and  used for most of the buildings, giving a wonderful cohesive

architectural style to the island towns.  The old town of  Valletta, inside thick walls of the limestone, is one of the most beautiful towns we have

seen.  It was built by the Crusaders.

 

 

Main Square in Valletta – Very civilized                                               Detail of a column carved out of limestone

 

 

Soffit support in limestone                                                                   Apartments with limestone facades and box verandahs

 

We could find no room in the main ancient harbour of Valletta and so we ended up at Gozo, a pretty little island to the west and caught the

ferry to the main island to sightsee.

 

 

Valletta harbour from the ramparts of the old town                                Our marina in Gozo

 

 

Some of the traffic which regularly passed the boat !!                           A cute old-fashioned bus which was the norm throughout Malta

 

 The marina berth was the roughest we have ever had the dubious pleasure of paying for with ferries and local craft scooting by at regular

 intervals, but we got to meet some local fishermen, and enjoyed our stay.

 

 

The local fishermen                                                                              And again, they obviously love their boats

 

 After restocking we headed north to Sicily.  A beautiful sail only slightly marred by a storm front which hit in the evening as we reached Sicily.

 We anchored in an open roadstead anchorage as the wind veered through 180 degrees but it calmed down and we stayed put until morning.

 A short run in the morning saw us in Siracusa, a well protected natural anchorage with an old town attached.

 

    

Siracusa town square                                                                             Siracusa street

 

 We anchored in soft mud and spent a few days sightseeing, shopping and met up again with Ton and Ingrid on their beautiful boat, Xelia.

Sailing north again, we headed towards the notorious Messina Strait, a gap between Italy and Sicily, a narrow gap of swirling treacherous

currents and winds, made even trickier by constant ferry and boat traffic across the gap .  We had planned to anchor at night and then

pass through the Strait in daylight, but a lack of anchorages meant an overnight trip which brought us to the Strait at dawn.  I was sleeping

as Stephen negotiated the strong current and dodged  a continuous line of ferries. But it could have been a lot worse and as we exited into

the Tyrrhenian Sea we were feeling quite pleased at the ease with which we had planned and executed a passage through what can be one

of the most dangerous stretches of water in the world.

A quick look at the active volcano, Stromboli, before, mostly motoring across to Sardinia.  Here we found numerous sandy bottomed

anchorages along the coast as we slowly cruised northward   The weather was getting just about warm enough for a swim. Sardinia is

packed with caravan and mobile home parks along its long sandy beaches.  Sandy beaches are a rare thing in the Med, so this probably

explains the popularity of the area.  Extensive reforestation has taken place on Sardinia  and this has brought with it the threat of wildfires.

One anchorage we stopped in was used as a water pickup point for firefighting planes and we found ourselves facing a continuous stream

of planes dipping to the water to pickup water before slowly regaining altitude, waving and smiling as they flew past our deck.

Met up again with Lloyd and Lynel from the Australian yacht Chappie.

 

 

A continuous procession of fire fighting aircraft dipping to pick up water

 

We tried to have a look at La Maddalena at the top of the island but it was now July and it was busy with boats and no anchoring was

allowed anywhere near the town so we went to a snug anchorage about 3 miles away.  We had to decide where to go from Sardinia, either

north to Corsica, west to the Balearics or straight to the south coast of France. We sailed to Porto Torres, a  non-touristy town on the NW

end of Sardinia, to check out and then out through Passaggio Dei Fornelli, a real tricky little strait, on our way to the South coast of France.

The forecast was for light winds so we expected to take two or more days to get there. The wind actually hooted and we had a fast (reefed)

sail and it took only a day. Just a few miles off the French coast a gust caused our main halyard clutch to explode into many small pieces and

our main sail and boom to drop. No other damage, so hauled the sail back up( with an extra reef) and sailed into Hyeres, which is between

Toulon and St Tropez. Got a WiFi signal but the way the boat kept swinging so I had to sit on the head to keep the signal!!

 

        

We carried this spinlock for 10 years and it broke           Hyere sailing school

within  2 months of installation. Luckily, we had kept

the old one

 

       

Hyere sailing activity                                                                                  The head was the only place a decent signal could be received

 

Pretty coast and towns, great food, friendly people, lots of sailors and sailing schools for juniors, and nice anchorages sort of sums up this

Part of the world. Very enjoyable but not very relaxing as the threat of a Mistral ( the strong northerly wind which arrives with little warning)

Was always at the back of our minds..

Across the Gulf of Lyon to Roses, Spain.  Roses is a  lovely town but this has to be one of the windiest places we have anchored. A bit of a

clue as to the windiness of the area was the wind surfing activity. The sails on the windsurfers were tiny!

!

 

The cloud forming over the hill was the first sign a Mistral was about     The Port Vell marina at Barcelona – even the signs were well designed

to arrive

 

Day sailed down the coast to Barcelona, where we stayed in Port Vell, a marina right in the city. This is a beautiful, vibrant city, and we

walked our feet off seeing the sights. We didn’t take any photos as the pickpocketting was so bad we left our camera on the boat

 

  

Port Vell marina                                                                                   A hard day at the office

 

 Next port of call was the island of Ibiza in the Balearics. Very scenic but very much a tourist destination.

 Met our old friend, David from the yacht Sunshine, who we visited Saana in Yemen with, and had not seen since southern Egypt. Back to the

Spanish mainland and day sailed down to Mar Menor, a small inland sea, where we rested and caught up with laundry etc. We then day sailed

a bit further down the coast before heading to Smir in Morocco.

 

    

Smir marina office Morocco                                                                 Smir marina half empty but they still charged European prices

 

Our timing was bad as it was Ramadan, and everyone was sleepy, so after a few days we crossed over to Gibraltar.

 

 

The Rock of Gibraltar                                                                          The Rock of Gibraltar from La Linea anchorage

 

 

The shopping lady                                                                               Cadiz harbour – Porto Sherry devlopment

 

After restocking the galley we sailed to Cadiz, and then day sailed along the Spanish and Portuguese coast to Lagos, Portugal, where we had

arranged a nine month berthing contract. Started the process of maintenance, ordering parts etc, and getting into the marina activities and

lifestyle. The cost of yacht stuff in Lagos was a bit of a shock, the engine oil we normally used was nearly AUD$60 for 4 litres. Although there

were the odd bits that were priced normally. Our first try at getting stuff sent from overseas went well with no delays, the second had a four

month wait in customs and a duty to be paid, the third went well, and we are still waiting for the fourth.

Being non-EU residents we are subject to the Schengan Agreement which allows us to spend 90 days in the EU but then we must spend 90

days out of the Schengan countries ( not all EU countries are party to the Schengan agreement).

We decided to spend our compulsory 90 days out of the Schengen countries in Ireland and the UK which are not part of the Schengan

countries.

 

 

Steve’s first Guinness in Ireland – and it does taste better                      Snow at Bundoran for Xmas

 

Arrived in Dublin to find the streets covered in snow, very pretty. Stayed across the street from Trinity College and enjoyed the city life, also

enjoyed the tour of the Guinness warehouse/brewery. After a few days in Dublin we went to Sligo and then on to Bundoran on the west coast

for Christmas and New Year. Had our first white Christmas and went for a walk in the falling snow. We watched in amasement as two guys

went surfing while snow turned the beach white, they breed them tough here!!! We travelled back to pretty Sligo for a few days before going to

Galway. Walking past the marina in Galway one day we noticed that it was mostly frozen over, not a sight we ever saw in Darwin.  Limerick

was our next stop and then down to Wexford and then a beautiful picture-postcard train trip to Wicklow. Wicklow became our base for the

rest of our stay in Ireland and we both loved this great place.

 

 

Seals sunning on the beach just near Wicklow                                      The Little Green House – our cosy accommodation in Wicklow

 

 

The seagulls were very friendly                                                             Ancient bridge at Wicklow

 

 We were made very welcome by the wonderful members of the Wicklow Sailing Club, home of the Round Ireland Race. Caught buses into

Dublin regularly and saw a lot more of this city. Rented a car for a couple of weeks and toured the South and West coast. A highlight of this

trip was the All Ireland Irish Dancing Championship at Killarney. Saw the Meeting of the Waters (Thomas Moore) and had lunch in the Avoca

pub (BallyKissAngel). We both really enjoyed the Irish Pubs, they are very friendly and sociable places to meet and talk. Ireland is very

picturesque and the people are very friendly so our time there went too fast.

 

         

Killarney National Park                                                                             Irish Dancing Competition

 

 

Near Kenmare - Black Creek                                                             Looking acoss Kenmare River

 

 

Avoca (Ballykissangel)  - the pub                                                         Wicklow

 

Edinburgh, Scotland, was our next base, another lovely city. Our flat was right in the city near the Playhouse and the Russian Siberian Ballet

Were performing a different ballet every night for a week. We got good seats and enjoyed the ballets, they were really good. Caught up with

Gail’s sister Pat and her friend Dave as they visited Edinburgh while we were there. Drove up through the Highlands and to the Isle of Skye,

visited Stirling Castle and Edinburgh Castle. We found Scotland quiet, relaxing and the countryside was both wild and beautiful.

 

 

Edinburgh with the castle in the background                                         Loch on the way to Isle of Skye Scotland

 

The lakes district in England was our next destination our way south to stay with friends and fellow cruisers, Richard and Pam Moore from

the yacht Aliesha, in the very Thames-side town of Marlow. Did some country walks and a drive down to Lymington and Milford on Sea to

buy some boat bits.

 

 

The Lake District                                                                                 Pam and Richard of Aliesha                                                                             

 

 

Lymington harbour                                                                              Lymington flats

 

  The three months holiday went all too quickly and all of a sudden we were back on the boat in Portugal.

 

 

Anzac Day Lagos Portugal                                                                Anzac Day complete with BBQ

 

 

Street in Lagos old town                                                                      Main Square Lagos

 

  

Opening pedestrian bridge into the marina                                               Rosco and Suellen on Barrenjoey about to do renaming ceremony

 

We had hoped to visit friends in the Balearics and Madrid during Spring, but for various reasons we never did. After our allowed 90 days we

extended our visa(non Schengen) for Portugal, so we could cruise the Portuguese coast for the summer.

On my way back to the marina after clearing out and getting some cash, I had to wait as the canal bridge was up to let another boat leave the

Marina. It was the motor yacht Domino of Brundall with Barry and Sue who we had not seen since the Black Sea in 2001, when they recognized the

lunatic waving at them they pulled into the reception dock, where we had a catch-up chat.

We have spent the last couple of weeks relaxing on the Portuguese coast and are now 20nm up the Guadiana river, where we shall stay for a

few more days. Another year has just flown past way too fast.